If you’re a permanent makeup artist, you’ve probably experienced the stress of pigment selection. You’re in the studio, staring at rows of bottles, trying to decide which shade will deliver perfect, long-lasting results—and it can be overwhelming. Whether you’re a seasoned artist or just starting, pigment selection and understanding color theory are constant learning curves. Let’s tackle some of the most common struggles and offer practical solutions to help you feel more confident about your choices.
1. Pigment Longevity: Why Does My Work Fade So Quickly?
You’ve nailed the initial look—your client is thrilled. Then a few weeks pass, and the color has faded much more than expected. It’s frustrating, right?
Solution: The truth is, not all pigments are created equal. Look for pigments with a strong track record of retention. These pigments are known to hold their color longer, reducing the need for early touch-ups. Also, take the time to educate your clients about aftercare—it can make a huge difference in how pigments settle and last.
2. Matching Pigments to Skin Tones: The Constant Struggle
It’s not always easy to find the right match, especially when every client’s skin tone and undertone are unique. Getting it wrong can result in colors healing too warm, too cool, or not showing up at all.
Solution: Spend time understanding your client's skin—both tone and undertone. For clients with cool undertones, use warmer pigments to balance things out, and vice versa for warmer undertones. If you’re unsure, Brovi and Hanafy pigments are great choices for delivering consistent results across various skin tones. Remember, it’s okay to swatch and experiment—no need to rush the decision.
3. The Confusion of Color Modifiers: When and How to Use Them
Adding modifiers to pigments can feel like venturing into unknown territory. What if you overdo it? What if you don’t do enough? It can be a bit intimidating, especially if you’re unsure when and how to use them.
Solution: The key is in the basics. Color modifiers are your friend when a client’s skin tone needs a little adjustment to get the perfect shade. For example, if your client’s skin pulls too cool, adding a bit of warmth (like an orange or yellow) can make a big difference. Don’t be afraid to play with small amounts until you get the perfect balance—start light and build up if needed.
4. The Healing Surprise: Why Pigments Change After Healing
One of the biggest challenges is seeing your beautiful work heal into a color that’s different from what you originally applied. It’s a common frustration—why does the pigment change so much after healing?
Solution: Every skin type reacts differently to pigment, so it’s essential to manage expectations with your clients. The good news? Pigments like Brovi and Hanafy have a reputation for delivering excellent healed results. Make sure your client understands that healing can take several weeks and that the color will soften and settle. It’s not about getting immediate perfection—it’s about long-term results.
5. Color Theory: The Building Blocks of Beautiful Work
Understanding color theory isn’t always the most exciting part of being a permanent makeup artist, but it’s absolutely necessary. If you don’t have a firm grasp on how colors interact, pigment selection can feel like a guessing game.
Solution: You don’t need to become a color expert overnight. Start with the basics—primary colors, mixing warm and cool tones, and how different pigments interact with skin. Over time, you’ll get more comfortable with these concepts, and you’ll start to see how your choices affect the final healed result. If you’re still feeling stuck, our Choosing the Right Pigments online mini course can guide you step-by-step through the process. This 1 hour accelerator course can finally get you the answers you’ve been looking for.
Take the Stress Out of Pigment Selection
Every permanent makeup artist faces these challenges—it’s part of the journey. But with the right knowledge and tools, you can feel more confident in your pigment choices and deliver better results for your clients.
Need more guidance? My Choosing the Right Pigments online course is designed to help you understand pigment selection, color theory, and how pigments impact your healed work. For only $34.95, this course will give you the skills and knowledge to take your work to the next level. Use the discount code pigments for $15 off. And don’t forget, we also offer Brovi and Hanafy pigments—trusted by artists for their amazing retention and beautiful healed results. Your clients deserve the best, and so do you.
This pigment puzzle class is free if you are member?